ADVENTURE RIDE Senghenydd & Bassaleg Loop

Despite being mid-afternoon, it was bright and sunny and I just had to get away. So I took Lizzie out for a short jaunt up a hidden gem, tucked in the middle of the Valleys.

September has been a beautiful month with mild temepratures and many days with bright sunshine. Our latest Covid-19 restrictions however, have us to stay within our county. It had been a few years since I climbed this hill roughly 10 miles from Oakdale, so it was the perfect day for a return visit.

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Overview - Senghenydd & Bassaleg Loop

Distance: 55.5 miles
Elevation: + 3444 / - 3450 ft
Duration: 09:48:11

The locals call it Senghenydd Moutain, but Mynydd Eglwysilan is a essentially a 355-metre-high hill standing alone in the northwest corner of Caerphilly County between the Rhymney and Taff Valleys. ▼ Jump to Summary

As I said, I got started rather late in the day, but this route is a pretty straight-forward loop that runs down the cycle path to Nelson, over the mountain to Senghenydd, Caerphilly, Bassaleg and then finally to home. So with the lovely weather and slightly longer days still hanging about, I made a go of it.

I started off heading down to Masycwymmer where I joined NCN Route 47 at the legendary Hengoed Viaduct. From there it's a flat ride through Parc Penalta to Nelson where I got back on the road for the short hop of about a mile through town.

Just past the Nelson public library there's a small road which veers off the High Street and climbs the mountain. The air was warm and dry and a light wind carried the smell of baling hay making it a wonderful autumn day.

Whenever I stop to take a photo, I try to remember to look behind me. Sometimes it can be surprising to see from where you've come. Way down that road is the thriving metropolis of Nelson.

I've still a ways to go before reaching the summit, but the climb has leveled off a bit. It's now just a steady gradient across a wide ridge. On my right, far off in the distance sit the Brecon Beacon mountains.

The grass is uncut and weather-beaten which adds to the sense of desolation. It's as if the land here has been left to it's own devices. The few cars that pass all slow and give me a smile, a wave. A motorcyclist gives me an encouraging "thumbs-up".

Then it happens and I hear that sound we cyclists know all too well. Just as I pull the wheel off, a car stops to check if I'm okay, if I need any help (which is generous and wonderful, thank you!), but I'm good. What better place could I ask for to patch a tube, eh? Just look at that view!

In short order I'm on my way again. The road narrows and gets a bit rougher as I near the summit. The wind has picked up noticably as well.

As I reach the summit, I remember again to look back!

Then in a moment, I'm on the southern side of the hill, heading down toward Senghenydd and the landscape changes. Here it is much greener and lush. The land is well-maintained. It is quieter with hardly any wind.

The remains of a linear earthwork known as Senghenydd Dyke stretches across this area. It is thought to mark the edge of an extensive 13th-century deer park once belonging to Caerphilly Castle further down the valley.

It's not terribly long, but quite fast down a very steep descent (16 - 18% decline) to the village of Senghenydd in the valley below.

Just before entering the village of Senghenydd itself there is a sobering memorial where one should stop to show respect.

Senghenydd Colliery Disaster

It's difficult to envision a life where digging coal with a pick and shovel is how you earn a living to provide for your family. It's hard to think of working six days a week, often 10-12 hours each day hundreds of feet underground in a dark and terribly hot coal mine.

It's impossible to imagine the horror of having the mine explode or collapse on top of you or fill with poisonous gas - all of which happened here over a hundred years ago.

At 8:00 am on the 14th of October, 1913, a massive explosion two miles underground ripped through the shafts of Senghenydd coal mine killing 440 men and boys. After all was told, 469 lives were lost and hundreds of families were left devastated in this small coal mining community.

...60 victims were younger than 20, of whom 8 were 14 years old; 542 children had lost their fathers and 205 women were widowed. The impact on individual households was great: 12 homes lost both a father and son, 10 homes lost two sons each, while the death of one father and son left an 18-year-old daughter to raise her 6 siblings alone; another woman lost her husband, 2 sons, a brother and her lodger.

The numbers are staggering. It's shocking to know that it took over 100 years for the government to place a memorial to the most deadly coal mining disaster in the history of Britain.

History teaches many things; mostly that people never learn and that many soon forget. There will come a time when no one living remembers the mines. No one will understand what life was like or the cost of digging coal had on the people that lived and worked and died here. It's sad.

So, take a few minutes out of your incredibly easy and comfortable life to read this; Senghenydd Colliery Disaster.

The South East Valleys speaks to me. I want to appreciate their struggles and their sacrifices. It facinates me to hear their stories; to see how mining shaped their lives.

I take time to read their names. I look at their ages... fathers, sons, brothers, young and old. I cannot imagine, but I try.

Note: There is also Aber Valley Heritage Museum, which is open on limited hours. It's small, but well worth a visit, just be sure to check their schedule before you leave.

The village itself is a sad affair. A few young boys rollicking their bikes on and off the pavements dominate the mostly shuttered HIgh Street. When they spot me drifting into town they are suddenly like a pack of wild dogs, circling me and shouting questions. "Pop a wheely!", one of the bigger lads demands. But when I laugh and say that I'm too old for such tricks they pick up on my accent and it's as if I'm a celebrity. "You from America?" and "What are you doing here?" and before I can hardly answer, they look at me with the deepest sincerity in their sparkling little eyes and ask "why?"

People here are fascinated with America. I guess television and Hollywood has much to account for that. But then, People often tell me of their trips to Florida and Disney World. Some talk about "Vegas" as if it's Jeruselum or Mecca. America is another world to hear them describe it. For them, I guess it is. In a way I'm glad... their innocence is sweet and it's good to know that some people see the US in a good way.

On the outskirts of the village, I climb a short rise to reach NCN Route 475. As I look back I think; "If this is all you know of the world, what's so wrong with that?"

Then I am off, rolling down the Aber Valley. It's a stunning afternoon. I've done the hard work and now I've a lovely three mile glide into Caerphilly.

The next village is not without sadness and decay as well. This old Workman's Institute is looking pretty dire these days. In fact, it's been boarded up over the past couple of years. When I last saw it, most of the window glass had been smashed and it appeared that vandals were easily having there way with it. Now the entire side is covered in sheet metal. So at the very least they are trying to preserve it in some fashion. If this were in the US, in all probability; it simply would have been torn down. It is good to see reverence for history.

The route rolls along under a thick canopy of leafy green trees. The path is smooth and wide and the late summer afternoon air is cool. The undergrowth is rich, wild, and rugged. I see no one.

The cycle path ends abruptly and I am plopped back into civilisation on a rather busy road heading into Caerphilly. It's not a pleasant change. I make my way down to Morgan Jones Park and it too is a shocking revelation as it is mobbed with people. The new skateboard park is teeming with bravado, young boys eager to look cool and snarky teenage girls too cool to care. The slap and rattle of wheels against concrete, the hoots and hollers, the shreiking laughter, a cacophony of revelry that cuts my ears.

I hold my head down. I try not to make eye contact. It's such a garish sight. I make my way over to the castle... the air suddenly seems clear again. The sky opens up and there, quietly standing alone is Caerphilly Castle.

Caerphilly Castle

This is the largest castle in Wales, the second largest in ALL of the UK, and it is a formidable beast.

The castle was built during the latter part of the 13th century by Gilbert de Claire as part of the continued expansion of rule by the Normans. Situated at the heart of hostile territory, it was designed as a central fortification to control the Welsh.

For two hundred years the castle was the site of numerous battles and seiges between the Welsh and British. Later, it even became a hotly contested seat of power between waring factions of the British Earl of Glamorgan and Queen Isabella of France!

However, by the early 15th century it had fallen into disrepair and was abandoned. It sat there, moslty forgotten until the early 18th century when the first Marquess of Bute began aquiring land for it's restoration. But it wasn't until the 1950's and the work of the fifth marquess; John Crighton-Stuart that the castle was fully restored to the magnificence we see today.

Unlike many castles in Wales, there is much to read about this fortress. It has a fascinating history I've only skimmed here. I highly recommend investigating more and if you get the opportunity, go see it! It's great.

Read more at CADW; Caerphilly Castle, and Castles, Forts,and,Battles, or on Wikipedia: Caerphilly Castle. You can also view my Gallery: Caerphilly Castle

I have to admit that I'm somewhat partial to this castle simply because it is the first one I saw when I came to Wales in 2009. I had no idea it was here and merely stumbled across it on my way to Cardiff.

It's hard to describe the shock of cycling around a corner, looking up, and seeing this castle towering over you. It sent chills down my spine. As a naive American, I had never seen a castle and it clearly invoked a sense of awe in me.

Years later, my wife and I came for a visit and this is one of the most engaging and interactive castles I have seen. It's a great place to spend a sunny day, have a picnic. There is much to see and do. CADW has done a wonderful job presenting the history through a suprising amount of interactive displays and theatre/galleries, Plus, the interpretive art found throughout the various restored rooms is simply brilliant. Be sure to check out my Gallery: Caerphilly Castle for more images.

Caerphilly holds a special place in my heart because of this castle and also from my work with Sustrans back when they had a hub office here in the visitor centre. The town doesn't get much respect though. It doesn't have a cathedral, so other than this castle, there isn't much else to lure tourists. It's kinda run-down in places, plus it's "over the hill" from Cardiff - which gets all the attention.

But I digress. It's time to move on. I've cycled just under 30 miles at this point and I've roughly 25 more ahead of me. I joined NCN Route 4 back at the castle (did you catch the sign?) and now I've 10 miles of designated cycling though some lovely country.

It's a short ride from the heart of town through several non-descipt housing estates before entering the traffic-free rail trail.

A mile or so down the path I stop at a favourite lunch spot. Places like this can be found along many of the old rail lines where they would dig out a small quarry for rock to build bridges and retaining walls - pretty much whatever the railroad needed.

Today, it's popular with kids hanging out, drinking beers, and old men on bicycles. (Yup, time for some bike porn too... I think to myself that much like this quarry, my old TREK will be here long after I'm gone. Maybe the next owner will find this photo of interest? What will be here in a hundred years?)

At the end of the trail I've a short drop through (cRaZy TuNnEl!) back onto the main road through the village of Machen and then I'm back onto a quiet lane.

From Machen, NCN Route 4 follows a very narrow lane that snakes along the valley below Machen Mountain. It's a fabulous roller coaster of a route that runs six miles through Draethen and onto Bassaleg.

The first climb at the start is fairly steep, but short. Then once you reached the top, the views open up on your left and are quite lovely looking across the valley floor.

As I cycled into the village of Drythen, I happened to notice a few rather unusual yard ornaments. It's quite a posh little place with well-groomed homes in a "city-come-country"/Laura-Ashely fashion. So when I saw a small group standing in their front garden laughing and drinking wine, I stopped to ask about the decorations.

Appearing somwhat annoyed with my interuption, they turned to explain that they were set out for the Autumn Harvest Festival (as if I should know!), and then abruptly turned their backs on me. For such a public display, I found it odd that they seemed so bothered with having to actually engage with the public... so after a couple of quick snaps, I just pedaled on.

This part of the route follows the Rhymney River and if you look quickly enough in places, you can grab a peek.

Back in 2009 when I made my first visit to the UK, this area was my first glimpse of the Welsh countryside. I was stunned and I still love this section of NCN Route 4... It's a wonderful, rolling cycle route.

At the top of the hill before dropping down into Bassaleg, I paused one last time. Looking over the brambles and blackberries, out across the hill, past the farms and livestock, in the distance I can clearly see the Bristol Channel - reminding me once again that you're never far from the sea on this little island.

The remainder of my ride from Bassaleg to home was pretty straight-forward; I simply followed the high streets through Risca, Rogerstone, and up to Crosskeys where I then entered NCN Route 47 again for the last segment through Sirhowy Country Parc.

As you know by now, I took my time and shot loads of photos. This is a classic example of how and why I like to ride. It's so easy to get out on your bike... so accessable and so very lovely. I am a lucky boy to live and cycle in this wonderful little country.

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Summary - Senghenydd & Bassaleg Loop

This was my last outing with Lizzie for 2020 and it was perfect. The sun was shining for the entire day, the temperature held around 19°c., and traffic was very light.

It was a day of history and romance... a day of contemplation and reflection. It was a ride of steep hills, rolling lanes, and lazy cycle ways. It was a beautiful day.

Thanks as always for stopping by.

Cheers! - cm

Relevant Links
Mynydd Eglwysilan Hengoed Viaduct Parc Penalta Senghenydd Dyke Senghenydd Colliery Disaster Aber Valley Heritage Museum Caerphilly Caerphilly Castle John Crighton-Stuart Castles, Forts,and,Battles Gallery: Caerphilly Castle CADW Machen Mountain Rhymney River Sirhowy Country Parc

Report Card
Ride Name:	Senghenydd & Bassaleg
Start Date:	Sun. Sep. 13, 2020
Starts in:	Oakdale, Wales, GB
Departed:	9:58 am
Distance:	55.5 mi / 89.32 km
Elevation:	+ 3444 / - 3450 ft
Max Grade:	11.2%
Duration:	09:48:11
Move Time:	05:27:30
Stop Time:	04:20:41
Max. Speed:	30.4 mph
Avg. Speed:	10.2 mph
Weather:	sun, sun, sun!
Temp:	19°c / 66°f

The following NCN routes were used either in part or in whole.

Route 47 Maesycwmmer - Nelson Route 475 Senghenydd - Caerphilly Route 4 Caerphilly - Bassaleg Route 47 Crosskeys - Gelligroes

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