Introduction

Welcome to the Archive. Here you'll find all of my ride reports from the first eight years of cycling in Wales. The layouts used here are in the previous design which I'm currently updating, so be sure check back!

Thursday, August 1, 2013

ARCHIVE
Cordell Country Heritage Ride

UPDATED!
This report has been improved... ► Click here to view the new design!

Having read Alexander Cordell's "Rape of the Fair Country", I found myself wanting to explore the valleys where I now live... to see the land of which Cordell wrote.
Overview
All of this ride follows walking/cycle routes of the National Cycle Network; the majority of which are traffic-free! (The entire circular route is shown at the bottom of this feature.)

The ride begins and ends at the Llanhilleth train station. Starting on NCN 465, the route heads up to Brynmawr where it then follows NCN 46 just a short distance over the Heads of the Valleys to join NCN 492. It then drops down through Garn Lakes, past Big Pit and Blaenavon, continuing uninterrupted to Pontypool. In Pontypool, the route joins NCN 466 along the Old Crumlin Road to Swffrydand and back to Llanhilleth.

So sit back, relax, and ride with me up through the heart of Southeast Wales and Cordell Country.
NCN 465 follows the Ebbw River leaving Llanhilleth...
and continues along a quiet lane through Aberbeeg...
Six Bells & Gaurdian
This grand monument is at first hidden by the trees as you cycle up NCN 465 from Aberbeeg. As you get closer, the trees clear, the valley opens, and this sculpture quietly dominates the skyline. It is a sublime tribute to the lives sacrificed for the coal industry. Also of note: there is a visitors centre with a small cafe and a charming heritage room located across from the car park.
Overlooking the valley in Six Bells...
A powerful gesture...
Ebbw Fach Valley at Six Bells
The irony of Margaret Thatcher closing the mines, putting hundreds of thousands out of work and devastating the Welsh economy... is that nature has reclaimed the valleys.
NCN 465 above Abertillery...
The Ebbw Fach...
 Sidebar of Note: 
Alexander Cordell Museum
The museum holds a collection of local objects which tell the fascinating history of the town of Blaenavon and its residence from the early days of the industrial revolution through to the modern day inscription as a World Heritage Site. The museum holds and displays numerous items relating to the community from local industrial archaeological, historic photographs, furniture, coins and military uniforms.

The museum also has on display some personal effects of the famous writer Alexander Cordell which were acquired following his death in 1997. Cordell was one of Wale’s most prolific writers who took his inspiration for much of his writing around the people and places in South Wales, in particular Blaenavon. The town and the surrounding area was the setting for his most famous novel Rape of the Fair Country through which he immortalised the people who lived and worked in the area during the Industrial Revolution.

Content provided by Cordell Museum, Blaenavon
The river and trail parallel...
Nantyglo, Round Towers, & Brynmawr
Coming out of the woods you enter onto a dual-use cycle path following the main road past Blaina and Nantyglo. Honestly, this is the least scenic part of the ride as it follows along side the A467. But soon enough you'll be back on a quiet lane up to the Round Towers at Nantyglo.
First glimpse of the Round Towers...
The last private fortifications built in Britain...
Along NCN 46 heading into Brynmawr...
Up over the mountain from Brynmawr one feels as if you have completely left civilisation.
Riding along the Heads of the Valley...
Far off in the distance you can see The Skirrid...
NCN 492 heading toward Garn Lakes...
Garn Lakes
Once covered in spoil from colliery workings, Garn Lakes Nature Reserve covers 40 hectares with lakes and grasslands transformed through an extensive land reclamation scheme. Opened in 1997, it is part of the Blaenavon World Heritage Site and sits just above Big Pit and the town of Blaenavon.
Riding along the moors above Garn Lakes...
More of the moors...
Looking back...
Entering Garn Lakes...
Blaenavon, Big Pit, and the Historic Railway
You can't miss Big Pit and the heritage railway as you cycle down from Garn Lakes for the path follows right beside the rail line. However, if you want to go into Blaenavon proper, you'll need to turn left at the road crossing between the Rhymney Brewery and the entrance to Big Pit.

I'm not going to begin to summerize what many folks have already put together regarding Blaenavon. The Blaenavon World Heritage Site is vast and consists of many interesting places to visit - each can take a few hours to fully explore. If you're planning on making this ride in a single day, I'd recommend checking out their website so that you can choose one to visit. (Of course, this means you'll need to plan another trip to come back!)
 Sidebar of Note: 
Visit Blaenavon
Located at the gateway to the South Wales Valleys, partly within the Brecon Beacons National Park, the Blaenavon Industrial Landscape is a testament to the human endeavour of miners and ironworkers of the past.

Set in 33 square kilometres, the attractions, events, activities and landscape make a perfect destination for a day out. The main attractions such as Big Pit National Coal Museum, Blaenavon Ironworks, the World Heritage Centre and Blaenavon Heritage Railway are all just a few minutes’ drive or walk from each other. Indeed, there are so many brilliant attractions that you need to spend more than a day here to enjoy everything – so plan a weekend if you can!

In 2000, UNESCO inscribed the Blaenavon Industrial Landscape as a World Heritage Site, for the part the area played as the world’s major producer of iron and coal in the 19th Century. Today you can see remains of all of the necessary elements needed for the iron and coal industry, including a coal mine, furnaces, quarries, railway systems, ironworkers’ cottages, churches, chapels, a school and a workmen’s hall. All set in a landscape that is favoured by walkers, cyclists and mountain bikers. Enjoy your visit – whenever you come! 

And, once you've fully explored Blaenavon World Heritage Site why not discover more about Wales, the first industrial nation, by following the South Wales Route of Industrial Heritage, part of a Europe wide route.

Content provided by Blaenavon World Heritage Centre
Big Pit is one of Britain's leading mining museums...
A restored steam train pulls out of the Blaenavon High Level Station during a weekend railway gala.
Riding along the rail route...
Heading down to Pontypool along NCN 492...
Uninterrupted and downhill for eight miles...
Remnants of the industrial age...
Still Waiting... sculpture on an abandoned platform quietly remembers.
ROUTE COLOUR KEY:  Traffic-free  Shared Use  Quiet Road  Steep Hill

ROUTE METRICS: Cordell Country Heritage Ride
Distance: 32.5 mi.
Skill Level: Moderate to Advanced
Travel Time: 6 -7 hrs. (depending upon stops...)
Elevation: +2620 ft. / -2620 ft.
Max. Grade: 10.8%
Avg. Grade: -0.3%

Riding into sleepy Swffrydd...

Note: We're very fortunate to have Sustrans. These folks have done an amazing job creating a vast network of walking & cycling routes across all of the UK.

 


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