Introduction

Welcome to the Archive. Here you'll find all of my ride reports from the first eight years of cycling in Wales. The layouts used here are in the previous design which I'm currently updating, so be sure check back!

Thursday, December 5, 2013

ARCHIVE
Carreg Tegernacus

UPDATED!
This report has been improved... ► Click here to view the new design!


Today I have begun to pull posts from my archive. This report was initially created during the early days of my blog and my time in Wales. I hope you enjoy.

 
Heading up toward the high ridge top...


 
The original plan to meet the Green Ladies for a group ride was canceled; so I rolled on. And sometimes without warning the most amazing cycling experiences just unfold... this day became one of those wonderful and epic rides.

Ride Report Card
  Ride Name: Carreg Tegernacus
  Ride Date: December 06, 2013
  Distance: 42.9 mi
  Duration: 7:15:00
  Moving Time: 7:15:00
  Elevation: + 2,998 / - 2,978 ft
  Avg. Speed: 5.9 mph
  Weather: Clouds
  Temperature: 7°c / 45°f

I cycled up the valley past Parc Cwm Darren and through the sleepy little village of Fochriw. At the edge of town, I turned right and climbed further up a small hill toward the top of the ridge - planning to head over to the village of Pontlottyn on the far side. It was as I started down toward the village that a rough road on my right actually caught my eye... because even though it was heading south, it went higher up the ridge!

Hello adventure! Time to do some explorin'! So I set off riding up another steep hill, climbing even higher up the ridge between Fochriw and Pontlottyn.

I climbed the broken little road and the wind intensified as I became increasingly exposed. I was giggling like a little girl as I literally sailed up the the steep hill with hardly any effort. (This section of my ride is indicated with the blue line in the map below.) At this point I was completely without any protection from the wind and rain. I leaned my bike over in the grass and wandered haphazardly around the wide-open hillside in awe. This is what blows my mind about Wales. This is what I love.

Looking back toward Fochriw...

Up on top...

Heading off across the ridge...

The wind was enormous. I could hardly stand to take any photos... in fact, the wind gusts blew the camera right out of my hands and I had to chase the darn thing as it tumbled across the grassy field! It was crazy. It was ridiculous. It was marvelous. It was laugh out-loud spectacular... screaming head-long into the wind... arms stretched-out-wide fun!

You cannot make this stuff up. You cannot plan this kind of wonder. Only through exploring and discovery can you get this type of excitement.

Look at that road ahead! See how the land drops off to either side...

Top of the world...

And then... then... over the top!


What is this place?...

And then the sky started to brighten...

And the wind began to soften...

And the sun appeared...

I could see it immediately that this was a special place. I could feel it. I rode over a short drop and then there were trees... the wind died down, though I could hear it in the leaves... there were birds... and the sun. I had ridden from a barren, wind-swept plateau onto a lush green hillside.

So this is it......

I cannot begin to describe my excitement and awe with this discovery. Just by chance, on a whim, without any idea... Carreg Tegernacus. Read more...

2000 years ago the Romans walked this place. Did they built something here... or was it just a road? A fort? What? Tegernacus died here and they placed a monument to him... but why? Who was he? Was this the place of a long forgotten battle?

Tergernacus, son of Martius

All that I can tell you, is what anyone who visits this place will agree... it is special. The landscape feels very unique... the sky and light somehow look different. I spent the better part of two hours wandering around. There is something powerful here.

And there is no disputing the history... the stones themselves show that many others have also found this place unique. It oozes spirituality.

Heading down the southern end toward Bargoed...

on a Roman road.

 SIDEBAR OF NOTE: 

© Paul Waites

© Brian White

Capel Brithdir
A few miles north of Gwaelod y Brithdir Cemetary on Brithdir Mountain lies a very old Cemetery called Capel Brithdir.

The cemetery hasn't been taken care of in nearly 70 years and only a few headstones are now readable. Sadly too, the only copy of the burial records were destroyed when the chapel was burnt down during the 1950's [sic].

Local legend is that the fire was caused by devil worshipers." Read more...

Who were these people? And the ones before them? What were their lives like? What made them happy? What stories did they tell their children? Do their children remember?

During demolition of the chapel in the 1960's, a cross incised slab of 10th-11th century (probable date) was found built into the walls. The original cross is now in St Gwladys's Church, Bargoed. The demolished remains of the church were heaped into the lower part of its walls to form a platform upon which the replica monument now stands.

The spirituality of Wales makes it fascinating. It is embedded in the character of the land. It is a part of the people. It is a place carved by the many passions of history. The hills and valleys are full of mystery and depth. It is a land of untold stories and forgotten history.

And then I was away, rolling quickly down a steep hill, quickly and suddenly, back to civilisation... Bargoed seemed like a thriving metropolis. It was shocking and looking back, it was as if I had been to another world... in another time. And writing about it now, thinking back... looking at my photos... I was in another world.





Area Description: 
To understand the landscape of Southeast Wales, envision the valleys like the back of your hand; your fingers being the ridges running north, while the spaces between your fingers are the valleys. At the tip of your fingers a high ridge connects everything together; The Heads of the Valleys and beyond... the beginning of a vast range of mountains - the Brecon Beacons.

Most all of the ridges running north (your fingers) are long, barren, grass covered moors used mainly for grazing sheep and cattle. Occasionally you'll find a church tower or monument. Mostly it is wide open moors falling off to the valleys on both sides. Flowing down the narrow valleys between these high ridges (the spaces between your fingers...) are the rivers for which the valleys are named (the Rhondda, the Rhymney, the Sirhowy, The Ebbw, to name a few...) and nestled along the rivers are the small towns and villages of Southeast Wales, where we live.

Thanks as always for visiting...

Cheers! - cm




Read more:


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Tuesday, October 29, 2013

ARCHIVE 
Lovely Day For It...

If you happened to watch the news or listen to the radio this past Sunday you might have thought the entire United Kingdom was going to simply blow off the face of the earth.
And in all fairness, it was windy. And we did get a fair amount of rain... but the hurricane they predicted... ("St. Jude", no less) passed Wales by with hardly more than a few gusts and some "fairly-typical-for-Wales" rain. But ooooo!.... the weather forecasters have such a flair for the dramatic. How they enjoy a good storm warning! (Read more...)

So I don't know why exactly, but I got the itch to go for a short bike ride.
Where else but up to the highlands above Fochriw...
It's only 12 miles above our place, but from the look of it you could be 100 miles from the nearest bit of civilization. The clouds come in fast and low and the wind whips up from the valley with a roar. You want drama?... this is drama.
Looking down on the little village...
I was getting soaked, bracing myself against the growing wind... completely exposed. It was not relaxed cycling 1500 feet high up in the barren plains...
Signs of the hard winter last year...
The wind began hitting me hard broad-side, blowing me off the road. I was down on the bottom of the drop bars, keeping as low profile as possible... and still I could not let go long enough to change gears. I pulled over and yikes!... this was as far as some other creature had made it. Keep movin'... keep movin'.
The wind was blowing hard and the rain was lashing!...
I struggled to capture the intensity with just a fiddly little smartphone... a few minutes later there was simply no way that I could even take the darn thing outta my jacket.
That's a storm comin' up the valley...
This is the last shot I took before the weather became really intense. The road narrows to a single lane just over the hill and it snakes along a series of saddlebacks with deep valleys on either side. There is nothing but scrub brush, road, and sky for four long, arduous miles.

Water was running down my face and under my glasses. I had my helmet tilted hard to the side in an effort to protect my right ear from the pelting rain. Water was running down my back - inside my jacket. My gloves were soaked. My feet were soaked. My arse was a saggin'. I was pedaling steadily into the fury at a whopping six miles an hour. It was hard, wet, work... It was fabulous.
Over the top and on the other side...
And then... suddenly I dropped around a small curve to the other side of a ridge and not so surprisingly, the weather was rather pleasant. There was hardly any wind and no rain. The sun was actually poking through the clouds. Welcome to the Valleys of Southeast Wales. You can see the lake at Parc Taf Bargoed in the shot above. There's a visitor center, a small cafe, toilets, and shelter... if ya need it.  I just rode on past and headed home.
About the route: Leaving Oakdale, I went up NCN Route 468 from Hengoed to Bargoed where I crossed over onto NCN Route 469 and followed the valley up to Fochriw. It's above Fochriw where the fun begins...
So that's it for now. Stay tuned for more stories of happy cycling adventures in Wales.
Parting shot: Fochriw Highlands spring 2012
cheers! - cm

Thursday, August 1, 2013

ARCHIVE
Cordell Country Heritage Ride

UPDATED!
This report has been improved... ► Click here to view the new design!

Having read Alexander Cordell's "Rape of the Fair Country", I found myself wanting to explore the valleys where I now live... to see the land of which Cordell wrote.
Overview
All of this ride follows walking/cycle routes of the National Cycle Network; the majority of which are traffic-free! (The entire circular route is shown at the bottom of this feature.)

The ride begins and ends at the Llanhilleth train station. Starting on NCN 465, the route heads up to Brynmawr where it then follows NCN 46 just a short distance over the Heads of the Valleys to join NCN 492. It then drops down through Garn Lakes, past Big Pit and Blaenavon, continuing uninterrupted to Pontypool. In Pontypool, the route joins NCN 466 along the Old Crumlin Road to Swffrydand and back to Llanhilleth.

So sit back, relax, and ride with me up through the heart of Southeast Wales and Cordell Country.
NCN 465 follows the Ebbw River leaving Llanhilleth...
and continues along a quiet lane through Aberbeeg...
Six Bells & Gaurdian
This grand monument is at first hidden by the trees as you cycle up NCN 465 from Aberbeeg. As you get closer, the trees clear, the valley opens, and this sculpture quietly dominates the skyline. It is a sublime tribute to the lives sacrificed for the coal industry. Also of note: there is a visitors centre with a small cafe and a charming heritage room located across from the car park.
Overlooking the valley in Six Bells...
A powerful gesture...
Ebbw Fach Valley at Six Bells
The irony of Margaret Thatcher closing the mines, putting hundreds of thousands out of work and devastating the Welsh economy... is that nature has reclaimed the valleys.
NCN 465 above Abertillery...
The Ebbw Fach...
 Sidebar of Note: 
Alexander Cordell Museum
The museum holds a collection of local objects which tell the fascinating history of the town of Blaenavon and its residence from the early days of the industrial revolution through to the modern day inscription as a World Heritage Site. The museum holds and displays numerous items relating to the community from local industrial archaeological, historic photographs, furniture, coins and military uniforms.

The museum also has on display some personal effects of the famous writer Alexander Cordell which were acquired following his death in 1997. Cordell was one of Wale’s most prolific writers who took his inspiration for much of his writing around the people and places in South Wales, in particular Blaenavon. The town and the surrounding area was the setting for his most famous novel Rape of the Fair Country through which he immortalised the people who lived and worked in the area during the Industrial Revolution.

Content provided by Cordell Museum, Blaenavon
The river and trail parallel...
Nantyglo, Round Towers, & Brynmawr
Coming out of the woods you enter onto a dual-use cycle path following the main road past Blaina and Nantyglo. Honestly, this is the least scenic part of the ride as it follows along side the A467. But soon enough you'll be back on a quiet lane up to the Round Towers at Nantyglo.
First glimpse of the Round Towers...
The last private fortifications built in Britain...
Along NCN 46 heading into Brynmawr...
Up over the mountain from Brynmawr one feels as if you have completely left civilisation.
Riding along the Heads of the Valley...
Far off in the distance you can see The Skirrid...
NCN 492 heading toward Garn Lakes...
Garn Lakes
Once covered in spoil from colliery workings, Garn Lakes Nature Reserve covers 40 hectares with lakes and grasslands transformed through an extensive land reclamation scheme. Opened in 1997, it is part of the Blaenavon World Heritage Site and sits just above Big Pit and the town of Blaenavon.
Riding along the moors above Garn Lakes...
More of the moors...
Looking back...
Entering Garn Lakes...
Blaenavon, Big Pit, and the Historic Railway
You can't miss Big Pit and the heritage railway as you cycle down from Garn Lakes for the path follows right beside the rail line. However, if you want to go into Blaenavon proper, you'll need to turn left at the road crossing between the Rhymney Brewery and the entrance to Big Pit.

I'm not going to begin to summerize what many folks have already put together regarding Blaenavon. The Blaenavon World Heritage Site is vast and consists of many interesting places to visit - each can take a few hours to fully explore. If you're planning on making this ride in a single day, I'd recommend checking out their website so that you can choose one to visit. (Of course, this means you'll need to plan another trip to come back!)
 Sidebar of Note: 
Visit Blaenavon
Located at the gateway to the South Wales Valleys, partly within the Brecon Beacons National Park, the Blaenavon Industrial Landscape is a testament to the human endeavour of miners and ironworkers of the past.

Set in 33 square kilometres, the attractions, events, activities and landscape make a perfect destination for a day out. The main attractions such as Big Pit National Coal Museum, Blaenavon Ironworks, the World Heritage Centre and Blaenavon Heritage Railway are all just a few minutes’ drive or walk from each other. Indeed, there are so many brilliant attractions that you need to spend more than a day here to enjoy everything – so plan a weekend if you can!

In 2000, UNESCO inscribed the Blaenavon Industrial Landscape as a World Heritage Site, for the part the area played as the world’s major producer of iron and coal in the 19th Century. Today you can see remains of all of the necessary elements needed for the iron and coal industry, including a coal mine, furnaces, quarries, railway systems, ironworkers’ cottages, churches, chapels, a school and a workmen’s hall. All set in a landscape that is favoured by walkers, cyclists and mountain bikers. Enjoy your visit – whenever you come! 

And, once you've fully explored Blaenavon World Heritage Site why not discover more about Wales, the first industrial nation, by following the South Wales Route of Industrial Heritage, part of a Europe wide route.

Content provided by Blaenavon World Heritage Centre
Big Pit is one of Britain's leading mining museums...
A restored steam train pulls out of the Blaenavon High Level Station during a weekend railway gala.
Riding along the rail route...
Heading down to Pontypool along NCN 492...
Uninterrupted and downhill for eight miles...
Remnants of the industrial age...
Still Waiting... sculpture on an abandoned platform quietly remembers.
ROUTE COLOUR KEY:  Traffic-free  Shared Use  Quiet Road  Steep Hill

ROUTE METRICS: Cordell Country Heritage Ride
Distance: 32.5 mi.
Skill Level: Moderate to Advanced
Travel Time: 6 -7 hrs. (depending upon stops...)
Elevation: +2620 ft. / -2620 ft.
Max. Grade: 10.8%
Avg. Grade: -0.3%

Riding into sleepy Swffrydd...

Note: We're very fortunate to have Sustrans. These folks have done an amazing job creating a vast network of walking & cycling routes across all of the UK.

 


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