From high up on Llangynidr Commons, this lake shines like a silver coin between the Brecon Beacons and the verdent Black Mountains.
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| Dark skies over a restored medieval crannog add to the moody setting... |
Despite its small size, this lake is special. At just over a mile in length and merely 500 feet wide; it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), for it has a rich and well-documented history. I've been to the lake several times and on every visit the skies have been dark and grey and ominous looking. Perhaps it's this lighting condition that gives it the special mystery for me?
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| A sunny morning start above Llangattock Escarpment... |
Note: I made this ride on June 15th of this year, however; as I write this today it is the 15th of August. I am sat inside with a terrible cold, heavily medicated and somewhat dopey as I try to recount my efforts. Please bear with me if I seem overly-romantic.
Elevation: + 6492 / - 6491 ft
Duration: 12:20:59
After riding up to Brynmawr, the first scenic vista of the day is Clydach Gorge. From this side of the valley you can clearly see how the rail line was cut into the side of the mountain. Further down you can also make out Clydach Ironworks and the open scars of a quarry.
Generally, you'll find quite a few cyclists along this stretch because it's absolutely flat, quiet, and the views are stunning. I had it all to myself today... providing yet another reason to love cycle touring on a weekday.
On this side of the valley the road runs along the Llangattock Escarpment; a series of limestone cliffs high above the Usk Valley. If you look closely, you can spot the Lonely Shepherd. (You can also read about my adventure last year with the Kingfishers: The Lonely Shepherd.)
Ahead of me to the north, are the Brecon Beacons. To my right are the Black Mountains. There is so much to see and explore... all it takes is getting out.
The morning was blustery, yet warm. Langorse Lake is miles ahead of me. I stop to take pictures. I was fiddling with two cameras; which always extends my time, but I don't worry about that too much. This is how I want to spend the day.
Nearing the end, the road turns abruptly, dropping nearly 1,000 feet in less than two miles to the village of Llangattock. Check yer brakes kids... one section in particular, is at a -22% grade!
It's hard to believe, but they did it... I don't know how or why, but yes, there are some houses clinging along the sides of this steep valley. Look quickly or you'll miss 'em!
Then I was down and cycling through Llangattock and Crickhowell; palms sweaty and breathing hard. It's a dramatic change in elevation and scenery as you pass from high clear mountaintop to deep dark woods.
Crossing over the Monmouth & Brecon Canal, I continued north on the lovely Cwm Crawnon Road which runs between the canal and Usk River. (Read more about this road in; Grosmont & Skenfrith Epic, pt 1.) Meanwhile, here are a few shots along the route heading toward Brecon.
Langorse Lake
After going under the A40 dual carriageway near Brecon, I turn right onto yet another unnamed road (yes, they have those here...) and I head out toward the village of Llangorse. It's a pretty empty road surrounded by high hedges for several miles.
The turn off to the lake is before you reach the village. There's a couple of caravan parks and a visitor centre plus some sort of adventure camp for kids, but I saw nothing happening... anywhere.
It is summer. It is warm. Why aren't kids running around? Why aren't boats out on the lake? Why aren't fishermen fishing? Where is everybody? Why am I alone at this magical place?
Along the northern edge of the lake is a manmade island called a "crannog". It's an early iron age wooden structure that they don't really know its original purpose. They have theories and vague notions based upon items dug up, but after so long and having passed through so many cultures; it's speculation at best. Much is lost to time.
Far up the opposite end of the lake is Blaenllynfi Castle. It's fallen down now and mostly just a pile of rocks deep in the woods and though you can't see it from here; standing at the castle you can see the lake. It's just another story lost to time.
It's quiet and calm. The wildlife seem at ease. I wander about taking snaps. The water laps against the piers. The ducks quack mildly annoyed. I sit and have my lunch.
As I begin to leave, an old man with a long beard pulls up to me in a beat-up truck. I could hear the springs squeaking and the clutch hitting the floorboard as he slowed. With his head and arm hanging out the window, he says in a long drawl; "there's some horses coming your way" and continues on. I smile and reply; "thanks!"
Then as he disappears around the corner, I begin to hear the distinct clip-clop of horses. Expecting several riders on horseback, I wait by the hedge for them to pass. A moment later, much to my surprise, I was met by over 20 horses! No riders, just horses of all shapes and sizes - casually strolling down the lane. They were perfectly calm and relaxed. None seem to be surprised to see me or my bicycle. They came over in small groups of two to three and poked their noses in my bags, sniffing and checking me out. I spoke to them. I patted their necks. I rubbed their brows for a few moments and as one group walked off, another group would approach me. It was if they all wanted to stop and say hello... each waiting in turn. They were as friendly to me as if we had known each other all our lives. I didn't even think to take pictures.
They were just about gone, then I took one photo.
Riding away I wondered; "what am I doing?"
Looking back across the valley; "where am I going, really?"
"Where is this road leading me?"
I don't have a clue where I'm going. I have no idea what I'm doing.
I'm just finding stories within stories.
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| Ride Name: | Llangorse Lake | ||
| Start Date: | Sat. Jun. 15, 2018 | ||
| Starts in: | Oakdale, Wales, GB | ||
| Departed: | 07:17AM | ||
| Distance: | 131.6 mi / 179.3 km | ||
| Elevation: | + 6492 / - 6491 ft | ||
| Max Grade: | 11.2% | ||
| Duration: | 12:20:59 | ||
| Move Time: | 09:25:09 | ||
| Stop Time: | 02:55:50 | ||
| Max. Speed: | 36.4 mph | ||
| Avg. Speed: | 11.8 mph | ||
| Weather: | sun/clouds | ||
| Temp: | 15°c / 59°f | ||
The ride home was uneventful. Lost in my thoughts, I pedaled through the quiet lanes down to Abergavenny, Usk, and Newport - just as I've done a hundred times before.
It was a great day... granted, a long one. The wet weather held off and I made it home before the rain.
I've already got it in my head about going back with perhaps a side trip up to Talgarth. That could be fun. Thanks for taking the time to read my post.
Cheers! - cm
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