As the restrictions are slowly being lifted, the rain stopped for a day and I finally got out for a proper ride down to Newport and Cardiff on a lovely sunny June day.
Prior to the pandemic, I was cycling further and more often. However, the lockdown put a serious damper on my cycling distance, so this was one of the first opportunities I've had to make a long ride.
Overview - Newport & Cardiff Loop
Distance: 68.3 miles
Elevation: + 3181 / - 3182 ft
Duration: 10:13:17
This ride utilizes several traffic-free cycle paths of the National Cycle Network linked together into an overall circular route. I've inlcuded links to each of the individual routes at the end of my report. ▼ Jump to Summary
This is a common route for me to cycle. On this day however, I chose to cycle the route in the opposite direction from my normal ride, that is; I cycled clockwise - first heading down to Newport, then over to Cardiff (and Cardiff Bay) before heading back home, north along the Taff Trail.
Note: Despite the driving restriction for automobiles to five miles, cyclists are allowed to travel as far as what seems reasonable AND because I am very familiar with the route AND because much of it is on traffic-free cycle paths, I felt that my decision was sound.
To start, I climb over the hill behind our house to Newbridge and down to Cwmcarn. From there I simply follow the Monmouth & Brecon Canal (NCN Route 47) to 14 Locks. I then snake my way along the connector route to Tredegar House in Newport where I join NCN Route 88 heading west toward Cardiff.
It was dead quiet when I left the house. The roads were practically empty for the short (and fast) seven miles down to Cwmcarn.
After three weeks of rain, the sudden burst of sunlight seemed to bring the trees and plants jumping back to life. Of course, the canal was simply stunning. The air was fresh and damp with a scent of wild garlic. The temperature was hovering around 16°c. Perfect!
Where am I? This looks an awful lot like the inland waterways of North Carolina! (There's a fine taste of Southern-American English for all you Anglofiles out there chomping at the bit to correct me!)
It's an easy-peasy 13 mile ride to 14 Locks.
From canals to rivers, Cardiff Bay and even the Bristol Chanel... water will be a central character to my day's journey. This is the Rhymney River.
My route weaves around and down through several housing estates before reaching the flatlands outside Newport. I settle onto NCN Route 88 just below the lovely Tredegar House as it follows along the narrow reens.
And the critters are out enjoying the sun. The swans wanted nothing to do with me (naturally), but I had to stop and say hello to the little cygnets! And of course the ponies! Hello ponies!
So cute!
I've told folks about the lake at St. Melons and they look at me like I'm out of my mind. Yes, Hendre Lake exists and the surrounding park is lovely.
Snaking my way through more uninspired housing estates on the outskirts of Cardiff plops me onto the normally very busy Newport Road. Where is everybody?
There is hardly any traffic. Even fewer pedestrians. From Splott to Cardiff Bay, it is like a ghost town.
Normally, this area around the Millineum Centre, the Senedd, and Mermaid Quay is bustling with sight-seers and tourists. Not today.
There's the smell of fish and seaweed and murky mud along the shore. But the air is clean and fresh from the sea as I cycle out past the barrage to Penarth on the far side of the bay from Cardiff. Damn it's purdy.
It's just weird. Everything is so still. There must be people around... just inside, peeking out through their curtains, wondering what's happening...
Then on the bridge heading back toward Cardiff, I discover this bit of ironic sculpture. How crazy is this?!?! Seems very fitting, on the outside looking in...
Also of note: I've traveled 34 miles to this point, just about half way of my journey. The day is stunning. I couldn't ask for better cycling weather. My legs feel good and it's a relaxing ride.
More sculpture along the bay heading back. I have to admit too, Cardiff is a damn-handsome city. The architecture is nothing grand, but it's got style. AND it seems to work well with the older historic elements. It's a good mix.
The city is doing a great job with improving conditions for cyclists... it's all about sharing. (Insert thumbs-up emojis here!)
Turning back north as I pass Principality Stadium and enter Bute Parc. More water too. This is the River Taff as it flows toward Cardiff Bay.
It's exceptional cycling for everyone along the Taff Trail. It's the most well-known cycle route in Wales and runs 55 miles from Cardiff Bay all the way to Brecon.
Roughy 10 miles north of Cardiff along the Taff Trail is town of Pontypridd. I often stop in the city park for lunch; Ynysangharad War Memorial Park. (Say that one as fast as you can!)
This place is usually buzzing with kids running wild and screaming bloody murder, young couples walking hand-in-hand, dog-walkers, joggers, pentioners quietly zipping about in their electric scooters, food vendors, you name it. Not today.
But then leaving town the path drops down close to the water. The river is wide, but the water is fast moving. It gurgles and hisses as it passes over and around the rocks. Somewhere up above me I can hear children laughing and playing... there's an occasional plonk! and splash! as the kids throw rocks into the river (as ya do!)
Then suddenly you realise that you're not in town any longer. The path is lovely and secluded and quite rural. Also, the route is beginning to climb a bit through a series of alternating flats and short hills.
Some photos need no explanation...
Most of the cycle paths are disused railines which have been re-purposed for walking and cycling (Thank you National Cycle Network!)... and Wales is just covered with them. There are some trails however, that hold a special significance.
NOTEWORTHY SIDEBAR
Trevithick Trail & the Pen-y-Darren Locomotive
The Trevithick Trail (NCN Route 477) runs between Abercynon and Merthyr Tydfil on the eastern side of the Taff Valley, while The Taff Trail (NCN Route 8) runs on the western side of the same valley.
For my ride today, I was only on NCN Route 477 for a short distance to Quakers Yard. You can see more images of this lovely trail through the woods in my gallery: Trevithick Trail.
At Quakers Yard I left the Trevethick Trail and joined NCN Route 47 heading east. This route is unique in that it is one of just two that cross Wales from east to west. I'll pedal along this route for about eight miles to the Hengoed/Massycwmmer Viaduct.
There's a fairly steep climb over a series of switch-backs out of Quakers Yard that puts you just outside the village Treharris. Here you'll find an unusually long flat section of about three miles which happens to pass through the lovely Parc Penallta before reaching the viaduct.
NOTEWORTHY SIDEBAR
Covid-19 & Painted Stones
There's a locally famous sculpture on the far side of the viaduct; Wheel o Drams. It's one of my favourites. I hardly ever need an excuse for a good bike shot. I've been here and done this one several times before, but I just can't resist. I love this sculpture and one day I'll get the lighting right!
Just after the Wheel o Drams I leave NCN Route 47 at Pontllanfraith and re-enter the roadway. As I make my way into Blackwood, the view is shocking and sad. The town looks and feels like many small American towns these days - empty and abandoned.
Ironically, the new look is not one folks are shopping for...
The road home seems mighty lonely on this late afternoon of 22 June, 2020. I wonder to myself if I will ever see it like this again or is this the "new normal"?
Summary - Newport & Cardiff Loop
It was a strange day. On one hand it was wonderful to be out and to cycle as far as I did, but on the other hand, there was a weird vibe about... the lack of people and cars looked and felt very weird. So many towns and villages were just empty. Even the nations capital, Cardiff felt like a ghost town. Such an odd feeling in contrast to such a lovely day.
I enjoyed my ride regardless and it was surprsingly relaxing to not have to worry about traffic. The weather was beautiful and taking photos was brilliant! The question remains; "how long will this continue?" I guess we can only wait and see.
Thanks as always for stopping by.
Cheers! - cm
 |
Report Card |
|
| Ride Name: |
Newport & Cardiff |
| Start Date: |
Mon. June 22, 2020 |
| Starts in: |
Oakdale, Wales, GB |
| Departed: |
9:17 am |
| Distance: |
68.3 mi / 109.92 km |
| Elevation: |
+ 3181 / - 3182 ft |
| Max Grade: |
10.9% |
| Duration: |
10:13:17 |
| Move Time: |
06:38:45 |
| Stop Time: |
03:34:32 |
| Max. Speed: |
30.3 mph |
| Avg. Speed: |
10.3 mph |
| Weather: |
sun! |
| Temp: |
23°c / 73°f |
The following NCN routes were used either in part or in whole.
|
 |
Route 47
Cwmcarn - 14 Locks |
 |
Route 88
Newport - Marshfield |
|
Rte 8 - Taff Trail
Cardiff - Quakers Yard |
|
Route 47
Quakers Yard - Hengoed |
|
