Introduction

Welcome to the Archive. Here you'll find all of my ride reports from the first eight years of cycling in Wales. The layouts used here are in the previous design which I'm currently updating, so be sure check back!

Thursday, August 23, 2018

SOLITAIRE 
Gospel Pass Epic II


Sitting at the head of the Vale of Ewyas in the Black Mountains, the Gospel Pass is the highest paved road in Wales making it a "must-do" challenge for many cyclists.

 
Looking north from the gap...


 
I've climbed the Gospel Pass several times, but always on the southern route starting in Abergavenny (considered the easy direction...). I wanted to give it a try from the northern route starting in Hay-on-Wye. I certainly got was I was looking for and more on this ride of a lifetime.

Note: Originally, I wrote this report in three seperate installments. However, after much deliberation, I have merged them into one, rather lengthy report. My apologies in advance.
Overview - Gospel Pass Epic II
Distance: 95.6 miles
Elevation: + 6918 / - 6918 ft
Duration: 14:13:07
Each part of the ride follows a distinct colour indicated on the map below. You may jump to a specific section by selecting the name.

[ The map above is interactive! You may select a particular section to view the details. ]

GOSPEL PASS EPIC
PartOakdale to Hay-on-Wye
Distance: 45.9 miles
Elevation: + 2,784 / - 3,236
The start of a fabulous day with clear views across the Brecon Beacons from Llangynidr Commons...

The ride from Oakdale to Hay-on-Wye is nearly 50 miles and it's wonderful. The route can be broken into three small sub-sections; Sirhowy Valley to Garnlydan, Garnlydan to Lyngynidr, and Llangynidr to Hay-on-Wye.

I didn't take any photos during the ride to Garnlydan, but once I began climbing up to Llangynidr Commons my camera came out in earnest. ▲ Back to Overview


With that said, it's always an impressive climb over Llangynidr Commons leading into Brecon Beacons National Park and the weather was glorious today.
Looking ahead and glancing back as I begin the slow climb up the high ridge above Garnlydan. The road is generally not too busy. Cyclists are a common site and motorists often wave as they seem both surprised and impressed to see someone pedalling along this desolate expanse.
The Black Mountains are nearest to my right... shrowded in clouds and mystery. For a completely different view of this area, check out my photos from back in February: Llangynidr Commons II.
There are a couple of lay-bys once you reach the top and it's only proper that you stop to just gaze upon the views. It's breathtaking. You'll often find other folks have pulled their cars over to snap a few quick photos too.
Before heading down the other side, I take it slow; weaving back and forth from one side of the road to the other... looking for good shots. There is just so much to see.
I'm very fortunate today; the sun is out and it's warm with very little breeze. It's late summer. The days are long. I can take my time.
It's going to be a very fast ride down to the bottom of the valley where I'll meet the Usk River at the sleepy village of Llangynidr.
And then I'm down... hands and wrist muscles burning, eyes watery, slightly out of breath. Three fast miles and one dodgy cattle-crossing - just like that!
Well isn't this perfect? Now I can sit back and relax. I've got nine fabulous miles of classic Welsh scenery to enjoy as I make my way to Brecon.
It's practically flat along the Usk River and that's the Monmouth & Brecon Canal on the other side. There are plenty of places to stop for a snack or toilet break or even some overnite camping, if you'd like? Come on... you know you want to!
Talybont-on-Usk couldn't be more quaint. There are several pubs right along the canal and that campsite I suggested is just around the corner... safe walking distance, indeed!
Yes, I know I'm taking too long. We've only been 25 miles. We need to keep moving for there is much more ahead of us today. But I just can't help myself from loving this place so much.
Before reaching Brecon, I turn east and head toward Llangorse Lake for four miles. Yeah, Llangorse Lake is awesome too... (see: "Llangorse Lake"), but I've got to keep going. Just past the lake I turn north again. That's Pen y Fan far off to my right.
At Talgarth my stomach tells me that it's time for lunch. I listen. I have sandwiches and coffee. Lets watch the locals. (Wait... what are they looking at?!?)
Then I'm off again riding over the rolling countryside. Old barns and sprawling farms dot the landscape for eight easy-peasy miles to Hay-on-Wye.
And now I'm rolling into Hay-on-Wye. I've cycled just under 46 miles. It's coming up to noon. I think I'll have another sandwich and people watch before the big climb up to the Gospel Pass.

GOSPEL PASS EPIC
PartHay-on-Wye to Abergavenny
Distance: 23.2 miles
Elevation: +2,058 / -2,142 ft
Praying against rain as I approach the Gospel Pass...

At a height of 549 metres (1,801 ft), the Gospel Pass is a narrow passage straddling the border between south-east Wales and England. This unique mountain gap is also the highest paved road in Wales. ▲ Back to Overview


There are two routes up to the pinnacle of Gospel Pass; the most common approach is from the southern side starting in Abergavenny. This is my first attempt at the northern route... the shorter, but much steeper route leaving out of Hay-on-Wye. (Note: elevation profile above.)

Naturally, this inspires many cyclists as the route becomes a "must-do" for those seeking grand challenges. It's an epic climb past Hay Bluff with the bonus feature of unmatched views from the heart of the Black Mountains.

The road is not much wider than a cycle path and surprisingly enough it is actually part of the National Cycle Network being NCN Route 42. I cannot imagine climbing this with a fullyloaded touring bike... me thinks a lot of walking would be entailed!

They call these "hills", but they sure look like mountains and after climbing nearly 1,500 feet in less than five miles... they feel like mountains!

I've still got a ways to go, but check out the view to my right! That's Hay-on-Wye in the near distance and far below me.

It's impossible to tell from the photos, but the wind is really starting to howl... and there's a heavy mist blowing down from the gap in the mountains. I'm loving it, but also concerned. I am completely exposed and would not want to get caught in a storm.

Before the last big push over the top there's a somewhat flatish area with a small car park for hikers to climb the bluff. Surprisingly (not!)... it's empty today.

Note: This is a future location for a "Bike & Hike" adventure. I'd stop today, but I'm not going to risk climbing Hay Bluff with the threat of rain looming.

I've done most of the hard work. Now I'm just enjoying the views and hoping that the rain holds off. But man it's dramatic looking, eh? It's looks quiet, but the wind is actually quite loud.

Along with the steady wind and mist, the temperature has dropped to 7°c (45°f). I should have packed another layer. It's hard to recall the glorious sun I had coming over Llangynidr Commons...

Is it me or does this road seem to go on forever? It's not terribly steep (±5%), but it just keeps on giving it to ya. The good news is that it looks as if the forboding clouds are blowing past!

I must be nearing 1,500 feet, but it looks a lot higher to me? The views are just incredible. The wind is dying down and oddly enough, the temperature is starting to warm up.

Hello ponies! The wild horses are not bothered by my presence at all. This is their country and it's pretty amazing to be here with them... Thanks ponies!

Nearing the top and the views... well, you can see for yourself. Robert Payne... Reid Chapman... I am thinking about you fellas. I wish you were here; I think you'd like this.



 
Climbing through the gap and it feels like I'm on top of the world. What's left of the road is pretty beat up and it looks like some folks have had trouble getting through. Can you imagine this in the winter with snow and ice?

Just a few notes... the ride up from Hay-on-Wye is 5.3 miles. The climb is ±1,800 ft. with an average grade of 5.8%. The maximun grade was a lung-busting 21%. It took me over an hour and 45 minutes to reach the pass (with stops for photos, of course!). It is awesome.
The Vale of Ewyas
I've said in the past that there's no glory in going down hill. However, if you've climbed the mountain; there is plenty of glory going down the other side!

In fact, there is over six miles of glory as I begin my fast ride down the valley.

There is such an surprising difference between the two sides. The slow climb up was through wide open fields with heavy dark skies. (I thought I was sure to get a good soaking.) Racing down the other side, the valley is quite narrow while the skies are starting to brighten.

And then the valley narrows even more as I move under a thick canopy of trees just above the River Ewyas. The temperature has dropped and it feels cool and damp.

I can hear water rushing over rocks and perhaps a waterfall, but I can only glance through the trees. I have to stay focused for the road is both very narrow and steep.

I come around a bend and suddenly I am out of the of the woods. The road flattens as signs of civilisation begin to appear. Small cottages sit nestled in the hillside while neatly trimmed hedges border livestock paddocks along the road. And then...

Capel y Ffin
This is a special place. Not only am I crossing Offa's Dyke, but there's a lovely village and church. Now is the perfect time to stop for a second lunch and a good explore!

MINI GALLERY
St. Mary's Chapel
A few miles down the Vale of Ewyas and hardly more than a wide spot at a bend in the road, sits the hamlet of Capel-y-ffin. Most noted for the 18th century St. Mary's Chapel, it is well worth the time to stop and visit. It's incredibly cute and be sure to sign the guest book! Read more.












It's time to leave. I've had a bite to eat, stretched my legs, and a bit of an explore. John Wilson, along with several fellas from the Kingfishers first brought me here a few years ago. John loves this place; I will always think of being here with him. (See: Gospel Pass Gallery)

Primary colours... Graham Alderton, John Wilson, and Ivor Davies... Kingfishers - 2016.

There's little to no traffic. It's a quiet afternoon now. The road has leveled out and I can sit back and just turn the pedals round...

I pass a pub, a bed & breaksfast, and a very intriguing fortified barn?

This is indeed VERY interesting! As I get off my bike and walk around, I look up the hill to my left...

There is Llantony Priory! We rode past the small sign for this place back in 2016, but didn't stop. Note: you cannot see this magnificent relic from the road.

So heed my words... when you see the signs - stop! Follow the short lane up the hill and go explore. You'll be glad you did. (See: Llantony Priory Gallery)

 MINI GALLERY: 
Llantony Priory

Along the road to the Gospel Pass you'll find one the greatest medieval buildings in Wales. First begun over 900 years ago, nobleman Walter de Lacy and a small band of monks built this remote and isolated priory against the backdrop of the Black Mountains. It is fabulous. Read more and View my Gallery.












Once again it's time to move on. The sun is starting to move down below the hills. I have seen much today, but I'm a long ways from home.


GOSPEL PASS EPIC
PartAbergavenny to Oakdale
Distance: 25.6 miles
Elevation: + 1,891 / -1,370 ft
Heading up NCN 46 toward Clydach Gorge...

The section of NCN Route 46 heading north from Llanfoist (outside of Abergavenny) to the village of Brynmawr is a must ride for anyone visiting Wales. It's not the easiest, but for the most part it is completely traffic-free and one of the most unique rides in the Southeast Valleys. ▲ Back to Overview


Essentially, the Clydach Gorge route is an eight mile ride along a re-purposed rail line that climbs high along the northern face of The Blorenge. Quite simply, the views are un-matched and spectacular.

The area is littered with remnants of its industrial past. You'll pass disused quarries, lime kilns, iron works, rail stations and many features of the old rail line.

There's a short section that detours around a private farm which puts you on a very narrow and steep road, but it soon rejoins the rail line. I had cycled 70 very intense miles by the time I began this last section, so a bit of a walk was a welcome respite.

I paused often to appreciate the late sun and it's dramatic effect. I should have tried to move along, but I was beat tired at this point.

As you enter the gorge itself, the pavement gives way to a rough track which snakes along a steep ledge. You'll pass several disused tunnels and viaducts. You'll not be able to resist stopping. It's crazy cool and the views are stunning.

Looking back is key; you'll often be stunned to see where you've been. I've cycled through here many times and I'm still awe struck. (Looking at the photos as I write this just amazes me.)

Then when you thought you had seen it all, the path becomes very, very narrow as it literally clings to the rock face. It's just a short distance around avoiding the tunnel, but it's super intense. Rock falls are common and the drop to your right is straight down for several hundred feet.

And then I found this! What?!?!? The route is closed? Without any warning no less. I was stunned. I had two choices; go back down the mountain seven miles to Llanfoist and get on the canal path to Pontypool. That option would add another 30 miles to my day and perhaps another four hours.

Or, I could go around this infernal fence and risk it. Guess what I chose.

I'm so glad I chose to go around... I had to carefully walk past some pretty scary looking electrical work, but in less than a quarter of a mile I was back on the pavement. However, the sun was setting fast now.

It was nearly dark as I entered Brynmawr. I was whupped. I stopped for a few minutes to rest and have one last snack.

I had cycled (and walked) 78 miles at this point. I had another 16 or so ahead of me to reach home. Fortunately, it was mostly all down hill and fairly easy. The only worry was that it would be dark and I had a section of about two miles along a busy road.


Summary
I made it home without incident... my mind drifting over random thoughts, my legs just going 'round. It was one of those rides where I had seen so much that it was hard to fully appreciate at the time. Looking back over the three parts now it still seems pretty incredible. I am a lucky boy.

My total distance was 95.6 miles. I climbed nearly 7,000 feet over three noteworthy mountains. The total time I spent traveling was over 14 hours. It was a big, big day.

I hope you've enjoyed reading about my adventure climbing the Gospel Pass.

Thanks as always for visiting...

Cheers! - cm
Report Card
Ride Name: Gospel Pass II
Start Date: Sat. Apr. 23, 2018
Starts in: Oakdale, Wales, GB
Departed: 7:17 AM
Distance: 95.6 mi / 153.5 km
Elevation: + 6918 / - 6918 ft
Max Grade: 19.2%
Duration: 14:13:07
Move Time: 09:09:08
Stop Time: 05:03:59
Max. Speed: 36.1 mph
Avg. Speed: 10.4 mph
Weather: sunny
Temp: 17°c / 63°f

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